Chevaliers Lagrazette Cahors 1997

We picked up a Bell & Evans duck from Whole Foods this weekend and found this interesting 10 year old wine to pair with it. Since I believe that duck legs and duck breasts require separate cooking methods, I chose to sauté the latter tonight and save the legs for a braise later in the week. I also made some wild rice with roasted chestnuts.

This is one of those wines that reminds me of Robert Ulin's book Vintages and Traditions. Ulen suggests how important the 1855 classification was to distinguishing and promoting the wines of Bordeaux from those of the rest of southwest France. Had the government not paid special attention to Bordeaux, we might all be drinking a lot more Cahors and Madiran and be no worse for it. Wines from Cahors are made mostly of Malbec (a grape that has reclaimed some notice thanks to Argentina), and, as this bottle demonstrates, they can often rival those from Bordeaux. Here's a decade old wine with plenty of grace and sophistication showing signs of maturity but still indicating a number of fruitful years ahead. It's medium-bodied and deep garnet. The classic signs of bottle age - leather, earth, wood - are still in balance with hints of red fruit and citrus and a tight but palatable tannic core. At $17, it would rival many classified growths.

Ridge Geyserville 2005

Stephanie had a stressful week at work, so I tried to help her take the edge off with an excellent meal and a nice bottle of wine. The meal included braised country-style pork ribs in natural jus, potatoes sauteed in goose fat, and green beans. The wine was one of my favorite American bottlings, Ridge's Geyserville zinfandel blend.

The 2005 vintage celebrates the wine's 40th anniversary, indicating just how long Paul Draper has been exploring zinfandel's possibilities. The zin is blended, as usual, with small amounts of carinagne and petite sirah which, to my palate, make the wine more earthy and food friendly than most American zins. Looking back at my review of the 2004, there seems to be considerable similarity between vintages, although the newer wine has less tannin and acidity at its core. Look for big yet balanced dark fruit flavors and a controlled ripeness that always ensures the wine will go well with game, pork, duck, and Thanksgiving turkey.

Ridge Geyserville 2005

Stephanie had a stressful week at work, so I tried to help her take the edge off with an excellent meal and a nice bottle of wine. The meal included braised country-style pork ribs in natural jus, potatoes sauteed in goose fat, and green beans. The wine was one of my favorite American bottlings, Ridge's Geyserville zinfandel blend.

The 2005 vintage celebrates the wine's 40th anniversary, indicating just how long Paul Draper has been exploring zinfandel's possibilities. The zin is blended, as usual, with small amounts of carinagne and petite sirah which, to my palate, make the wine more earthy and food friendly than most American zins. Looking back at my review of the 2004, there seems to be considerable similarity between vintages, although the newer wine has less tannin and acidity at its core. Look for big yet balanced dark fruit flavors and a controlled ripeness that always ensures the wine will go well with game, pork, duck, and Thanksgiving turkey.

Argyle Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2006

This wine has been one of the few reasonably priced American pinot noirs that I have consistently enjoyed. The current vintage, however, was something of a disappointment. In preparation for Thanksgiving, I cooked a bone-in turkey breast with mushroom gravy. It was really tasty. We should eat turkey more often. The wine actually went well with the dish but not in the way that I anticipated. Normally, the entry-level Argyle pinot, which sells for about $18, is reminiscent of many lovely, well-structured wines from the Cotes du Beaune in southern Burgundy that sell for $25 or more. This vintage, however, more closely resembles a Beaujolais cru wine - perhaps a Julienas - with fruity, sweet cherry notes. Beaujolais crus are great with turkey, but many of them are available for less than the price of the Argyle, making it a less attractive alternative. But if you insist on drinking American wine on this quintessentially American holiday, pick up the Argyle. N.B. Start your Turkey-Day dinner with a bottle of the same winery's sparkling brut.